Necktie Knot Know-How
Every man over twelve should know how to tie a necktie and – just as importantly – the kind of knot that goes with the shirt. That’s sartorial wisdom usually reinforced by proms, first dates and myriad other Western rites of passage. Sadly, though, a good number of guys go through life not knowing how to do either. Before you go out to get that first tailored suit or scoring that high-paying job, these are two skills you should master first.
The Four-in-Hand
An oldie but goodie, the four-in-hand is the kind of versatile knot to use when you’re not entirely sure what kind you should be using. The slim stance makes it usable with most types of neckwear – extremely slim ties included – and compatible with a majority of the casual and formal shirts you’re bound to own. In short: learn to do this one.
Start by draping the tie around your neck, with the thinner end on your left about two-thirds the length of the thicker end on your right. Pass the thick end over then under the thin end to form the basic shape of the knot. Pass the thick end just once more over the thin end, pass it through the loop around your neck and then thread it through the knot. Pull it all the way down, and then use the thin end to tighten and adjust the tightness.
The Half-Windsor
Slightly thicker than the four-in-hand, the half Windsor is the variety to use when you’re headed for more special events like a first date or anniversary dinner. Slightly thicker, it has a more formal look that’s better suited for neckties with a more traditional width. It’s not a knot you’ll want to use with that skinny bar tie.
Drape the thin end about halfway down the length of the thick end; the knot uses more turns and thus more fabric. Pass the thick end over then under the thin one. With the thick end rear side out, flip it up toward you then thread it through the loop around your neck. Pass the thick end across the thin one again, pass it under and then through the loop. Slip the thick end through the knot to finally finish off the half-Windsor.
The Full Windsor
Full Windsor knots are made to impress in every possible way; at least, that’s how it worked for Frank Sinatra. It’s a formidably big knot that conveys power and confidence. A full Windsor is the most traditional knot you could use for any outfit, and it calls for an equally traditional necktie. Go with a classic width or, better yet, a full-on power tie.
Drape the thin end half or a third of the way the length of the thick end. Pass the thick end over the thin one then thread it under and through the loop. Pass the thick end under and then over and through the loop. Pass the thick end over the thin end once more, and then pass the thick end under and through the loop. Thread the thick end through the knot on your way down to finish the full Windsor.
The Perfect Necktie Knot
If you’ve ever opened a men’s fashion magazine in the last decade, you’d notice one common feature among all those high-end neckties they use in the ad spreads: each and every one of them seem to have that dimple right under the knot.
That small crease is a European standard and the very highest sartorial one for neckwear today. It represents the perfectly knotted tie, and represents you as a tasteful, high-bred man. Generally, you can achieve it by pinching the knot with a ring formed by thumb and index finger as you pull on the thick end in the final step of forming the knot. Keeping an index finger inserted in the bottom of the knot while adjusting should also help.
Practice is the best way to consistently get the coveted dimple in every knot you tie. It isn’t an absolute practical necessity, but sartorially your formal outfit won’t be whole without it. The dimple is what turns an ordinary tie into a well-dressed m
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